16 Overcoat Do’s & Don’ts – Gentleman’s Gazette

16 Overcoat Do’s & Don’ts – Gentleman’s Gazette


Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we’ll discuss the 16 overcoat
do’s and don’ts so you stay stylish and warm through the colder months of the year. Rule no.1 and that’s very dear to my heart,
don’t just buy the same black boring overcoat that every other man out there has. Black, in my opinion, is quite overrated especially
for overcoats because it shows every little hair and dust speck and you just blend in. At the same time, an overcoat gives you the
opportunity to really stand out from the crowd and so I urge you to consider other colors
such as brown, tan, maybe mixes, and we’ll talk more
about it later in the video here. Two, do look for longer overcoats. By that, I mean something that covers your
knee because you stay warmer that way and traditionally, it’s a very classic look that
won’t go out of style anytime soon. If you go to the department store these days,
you will find lots of shorter overcoats because that’s the current fashion, at the same time,
it won’t stand the test of time and it makes you cooler. The proper overcoat length can be very flattering
to your look and it should be proportional to your height. If you’re a shorter man, go with something
that is knee length or slightly shorter. If you’re a taller man, go with something
knee length or slightly longer. If you’re of regular height, just go with
something around knee length. If you watch old movies, you can sometimes
see men wearing overcoats that reach all the way down to the ankle and while that keeps
you warmer, it definitely has a very stodgy old world look and in my opinion, it makes
you look less attractive. Three, do opt for hundred percent natural
materials in overcoats. Unfortunately, even expensive overcoats these
days are often blended because it makes the fabric less expensive and thus more affordable
or increases the profit margins of the manufacturer. While polyester nylon fibers can make a garment
more durable, they’re not as insulating as natural fibers such as cashmere, or wool,
or alpaca, and because of that, I’d stay clear of them. They also don’t age as well and so 100% natural
materials will always be your best bet. Personally, I’m a huge fan a hundred percent
wool for overcoats because it’s heavy, not too expensive, it doesn’t absorb water, and
it keeps me warm. Cashmere is really nice and soft to the touch,
however, for overcoats, it’s mostly too lightweight and so I find it not to be warm enough for
the colder days of the year. Four, don’t buy an overcoat with a zipper. Yes, you can see them in ski jackets and functional
jackets but an overcoat is a classic garment that is stylish and as such, you’d go with
buttons. In case you go with a duffle coat, you can
also have wooden toggles but you can learn more about that in our duffle coat guide here. Yes, it’s true that single-breasted coats
are the norm out there but double breasted ones make you stand out from the crowd and
on top of that, they keep you warmer because they have two layers of fabric on top of each
other versus a single-breasted, it just has one layer because it’s buttoned in the middle. If you opt for a double-breasted overcoat,
make sure it has peak lapels because that’s a classic style or an Ulster collar which
is also appropriate for DB overcoats. Definitely stay away from notch lapels in
double-breasted overcoats because it makes it look like from the 80s and it’s just historically
incorrect. Six, don’t forget the Hat. An overcoat is great to be worn with a hat
because it keeps you warmer and because it’s a
classic garment, it is stylish, a hat always works well together. For a darker more formal overcoat such as
the one I’m wearing here right now in gray with a black color, a Fedora is an ideal choice. Alternatively, you can also go with a Homburg
hat and you can learn more about that hat style in this guide here. If you want to be a little more casual, I
suggest you go with a flat cap or a newsboy cap and if you need to be really warm, you
can opt for something that covers your ears such as maybe a sheepskin hat. Personally, I live in Minnesota where the
winters get really cold but fortunately, I haven’t had to resort to those kinds of hats
yet. Seven, do wear a boutonniere or a pocket square
with your overcoat. If your overcoat has a buttonhole on a lapel,
you should wear a boutonniere because it’s very stylish. If your lapels have buttonholes on either
side, always wear it on your left. If your overcoat has a chest pocket, you can
also wear a pocket square. Ideally, only if it’s a traditional chest
pocket, if it’s flat I would not wear a pocket square and of course, if there’s no pocket,
you can’t wear a square but that goes without saying. Eight, don’t buy an overcoat that is too large
and baggy because it makes you look unattractive. First of all, determine how you want to wear
your overcoat. If you do want to wear a jacket underneath,
make sure you have enough room in your overcoat. Ideally, bring a jacket when you try them
on and make sure you have enough space in the shoulder area and in the upper arm in
your sleeve, otherwise, you can end up with a roomy coat in the torso that is just too
tight in the sleeves and that limits the range of movement, otherwise, in terms of fit, the
same principles apply as they do in jackets so I urge you to check out our guide on how
a suit should fit here. Nine, do look for striking yet classic details. No, I don’t want you to wear bright orange
reflective overcoats, however, I urge you to consider maybe an interesting
weave in the fabric such as on this one here, where you can see, it consists out of gray,
black, and blue, and because of that, it’s super versatile because I can wear with all
kinds of suits in those colors. Also, it has a black velvet collar that really
changes the look of the entire ensemble. Alternatively, you could also go with a bold
pattern, a classic would be a herringbone and they can definitely be oversized, don’t
get something that is too small, you can wear it for a suit but not for overcoats. You can also go with epaulets, angle pockets,
maybe cuffs, or whatever you like. They’re all classic details and it’s just
fun to play with them on an overcoat. Ten, don’t buy overcoats that combine the
styles of different overcoats because they will look dated very quickly. Designers often want to add a little twist
to their overcoat and so they start mixing patterns and details from traditional overcoats. Most of the time, they look just weird. For example, if you have a trench coat, it
should be made out of a cotton gabardine. If you start making it in a wool fabric or
in leather, the look is just very unadvantageous and it makes you look like someone from the
80s or 90s. Eleven, don’t be afraid to invest a little
money in a good-quality overcoat because it’s something that will last you longer than a
suit most of the time and you also have to buy fewer of them. It’s going to be a lasting investment and
you really want to find something that drapes well
and flatters you because you can combine it with your entire wardrobe. Twelve, do consider vintage overcoats. Personally, I
love vintage overcoats because they have heavier fabrics that drape really really well and
on top of that, they have interesting color combinations such as the
coat I’m wearing here right now, in fact, most of the overcoats in my collection are
vintage and this one with a bold herringbone pattern and belt and an Ulster collar actually
found for $5.00 at a flea market. It’s really heavy, nice , and warm and I always
get compliments when I wear it so wherever you are, keep your eyes open. Thirteen, don’t mix an overcoat with casual
attire. If you want to wear your sweatpants, maybe
go with a quilted jacket or a hoodie and leave the overcoat at home. Mixing those two elements just show “oh I
want to dress up but at the same time I don’t” and it just makes you look odd. The same is true for accessories such as baseball
hats, they simply wouldn’t go with an overcoat. Fourteen, do look for heavy fabrics in an
overcoat because they’re much more forgiving, they don’t show wrinkles as easily, and they’ll
keep you warm. Today a fabric with 14 to 19 ounces or 420
and 570 grams is considered to be heavy. Back in the day, that was almost a lightweight
overcoat and typically you could find some in 28 to 30 ounces or 850 to 900 grams. Fortunately, the cloth finishing today is
much better so fabrics are softer which is nice but that doesn’t help you if you don’t
stay warm when it’s really windy and cold outside. If you pick up an overcoat, it has to feel
substantial and heavy, if it doesn’t, I suggest you leave it behind. For the same reason, I’m not a
huge fan of cashmere overcoats because, in 98% of its time, they’re just a too lightweight
and know there’s a heavy version out there I think from Loro Piana and if you can find
that it might work out but of course it also depends in what kind of climate you live. Fifteen, don’t show any cuff on an overcoat. if you’ve
been a regular follower of the gentleman’s Gazette, you’ve likely encountered our sleeve
length guide. If you haven’t watched it yet, please do so
now. With regular suit jackets or sport coats,
most men want to show a little bit of their shirt cuff. With an overcoat, that’s not the case, you
want it to reach all the way down to the beginning of your thumb that way, it covers your entire
jacket it gives a little room to move without letting in the cold air. At the same time, you don’t want the overcoat
sleeve to cover your thumb otherwise it looks too long and like something you just borrowed
from your older brother. Sixteen, do look for the little button in
the vent area because when it’s very windy, you can just close it and stay warmer that
way. if you have a long vent and you don’t have
a button, an alterations tailor may be able to add a hidden buttonhole as well as a button
so you can apply that. Last but not least, a bonus tip, if you wear
an overcoat, try to add classic accessories such as a scarf or gloves. Sometimes if you live in a very mild climate,
that may not be necessary but most of the time, you definitely want them. Opt for dress leather gloves not your ski
gloves, and go with nice cashmere or wool or alpaca scarves that keep you warm and stylish. For a selection of dapper gentleman scarves
and gloves in various colors and patterns, please check out our selection here in our
shop. if you enjoyed this video and want to learn
more about overcoats please subscribe to our channel
and hit that little bell so videos like this can write your inbox in
today’s video and wearing a classic paletot style overcoat from Chesterberry which is
double breasted with six buttons two of which are button and truth
which are decorative it has regular flap pockets no chest pocket but buttonholes in my lapels
so I can wear it with a boutonniere the one you can see here is the edelweiss which is
one of our most popular lapel flowers the buttons are made of a dark round horn which
are natural and suit the formality of this coat apart from the interesting hundred percent
wool fabric which consists of colors in charcoal gray
blue and black something that really stands out is the black velvet
collar even if you have a solid overcoat it’s definitely something you can add after the
fact it really changes the entire look and perception of the garment
as you can see the overcoat reaches below my knee which is classic elegant and it keeps
me warm it also has a little button in the back which I can close if I want it for my
pants I’m wearing warm dark brown corduroys on my feet
you can find Balmoral Oxford boots with a cap toe in black which are lined with fur
and that way my feet stay much more because of that I also opted for a rubber sole which
provides more grip and works better on salty wintery roads and sidewalks the scarf is double-sided
in silk and wool from Fort Belvedere it has a burgundy base with tones
blues orange and it works quite well with my overcoat my hands are kept warm by petrol
blue lamb nappa gloves with a cashmere lining by Fort Belvedere which you can find in our
shop here just like the scarf my hat’s a vintage felt Fedora from the German company I had
added a contrasting hat band and although it’s Navy and my
color is black it works really well with the overall ensemble because of the different
blue tones and gray tones and black tones in my overcoat fabric

99 comments

  1. I’m in 7th grade and I’m in Wisconsin so It snows a lot so should I wear an overcoat to school since it’s really cold here

  2. im 13 about to buy a trench coat should i or would it be wierd i do go with shirts alot like fine clothing but im scared im gonna be made fun of

  3. I am just shopping for a new overcoat myself, I was wondering where you found the coat you wear at 6:28. Would love to wear a coat like that.

  4. I disagree with #10's trench coat bit. The wool-cashmere and cashmere trench coats from Burberry look amazing, unlike the ones you showed, which do look pretty weird. Otherwise really cool video!

  5. I inherited my Grandfather's wool overcoat. It is from the 1950's . I wore it to a company dinner one Christmas. Got many compliments. The silk lining is wearing out unfortunately. Would it even be possible to replace the lining?

  6. Do you have any recommendations for dress gloves? I struggle to find well fitting leather gloves because my hands are so large. I wear a 2x L glove or 3x L winter work glove. Should I stay away from contracting colors? Perhaps it's better that my hands stand out. I just dont know. Thanks.

  7. I do love your style but I must say, fedoras are NOT in. While you may love them and thats cool if you do, I wouldnt suggest to the general populous to wear them. A flat cap makes you look good. The fedora makes you look like a 13 year old trying to look like a gangster

  8. "it makes look like someone from the 80s or 90s"

    Duuuuuude! Look at yourself! You look like an italian mafia member. Who wants to go out dressed like that? You put an X for most of the modern looking coats just because YOU don't like it.

  9. What flea markets do you have over there in America?
    I live in Niedersachsen, Germany and go to every flea market near my location. And sadly i found never something like these classy pieces. Is there any advice some of you can give? I would appreciate it, have a nice day.

  10. Advise to not wear overcoats made from unusual materials (e.g. leather) as you will look like you are from the 80/90's but then you wear a fur one……

    What gives?

    Otherwise I found this helpful.

    I just bought an ex military one.
    100% wool but it was ankle length so I am having a seamstress adjust it to just above the knee.

  11. I have a dark blue overcoat with black buttons and buckles, I am planning to replace the buckles with metal (silver) ones, should I replace the black buttons as well to pair it with brown boots or can I ignore the brown-black combination if it is just black buttons?

  12. Not cool bro!! How can you pick on the ultimate gentleman? How can you pick on the Belgian Wonder? How can you pick on Hercule Poirot!!🤣🤣🤣

  13. I'm loving that fur coat, man! Though I think leather jackets can be styled without looking too much from the 80's because It's not the only time people wore those.
    I like to wear a long black or dark brown leather coat with most suits, casual or not. It just seems to go with a lot of outfits, but that's my personal prefrence. :3

  14. Any recommendations for places to purchase an overcoat? I’m also in Minnesota so any places in the Twin Cities would be perfect.

  15. "I live in MN and haven't had to wear those yet."

    I've been here all my life. Do you just not go out when it is -30? LOL.

  16. Went to my local thrift store yesterday and found a very nice overcoat. It’s made in Britain, it was definitely hand tailored and it’s a high quality garment. I recommend going to your local thrift store, like Raphael says in the video, you’re bound to find something nice

  17. I'm not sure which world you are addressing in your bizarre style advice. The only people wearing clothes like you give advice on in movies from the 1940's!! NEVER give and Englishman style advice because if you do you will be thrown into the Tower of London and never seen again!

  18. Avoid cashmere? Lol! The weight of the fabric isn't a guarantee of warmth. The whole point of a cashmere overcoat is that it is as warm – or warmer – than wool, but much lighter – so you don't feel like you are giving a small child a piggy back ride every time you put your coat on. And it has a wonderfully soft and luxurious feel. When a lady takes your arm, she won't want to let go.

  19. This guy seems like he knows what he's talking about but his style is so old fashion it's kinda hard to take him seriously. He looks stylish and not stylish at the same time.

  20. Hi everyone, could you tell me how should I have buttoned my single breasted three row over cout
    Should I have it buttoned same way like regular jacket or in this case I can have buttoned all three buttons?
    Thank you for answer

  21. Ok now that I run the Chicago italian mafia, can you make a video on how to run it? You know, best body dumping spots, how exactly I’m supposed to bribe the police, how to keep my men in line, the usual mafia stuff

  22. “Makes you look like you’re in the 80s or 90s…” – says the one who loves to dress as if he’s in the 20s or the 30s era. Don’t hate because others don’t want to dress like an old man.

  23. Do you find your approach to classic menswear similar to that of Maximilian Mogg? Would love to see a partnership with you and Mr. Porter to really accentuate the endearment of classic menswear.

  24. Yeah, a fairly heavy wool , just below the knee over coat works well in upto light snow( -7c). Wear this with llyod german winter leather boots for something nice…

  25. I think the hat would’ve been better plain or maybe with a smaller band. It distracts from the coat a little too much.

  26. Would you kindly tell us where to purchase the grey Chesterfield (velvet collar) ? One suggestion I have is that you explain where to purchase the items which you wear in the videos. You always fail to offer that most important information and clearly…when we like your suggestions…we need to know where to acquire the goods. Thank you.

  27. Now I get it, what‘s so off, its not the way he looks, its the speed in that hes talking, its so odd. Sometimes very fast and sometimes slow. Work on a better talking pace mate.

  28. This guy is completely wrong about the trench coat made of material other than the classic Burberry. Wool is fine. Celine makes one–looks great. I have a vintage gray wool trench made in England. Its awesome. Leather is a no-no because it's too much of a reminder of Nazis who notoriously wore them. He is also wrong about mixing casual with overcoat. Jeans (even worn or ripped) are fine along with a hoodie or whatever underneath.

  29. Correction…if you're a shorter man DO NOT wear an overcoat, because you'll look even more midgety. Just wear jackets which end at your waist and forget overcoats. Period.

  30. I appreciate the sentiment re: overcoats going over the knee but the problem is for men with shorter legs, like me, that is not flattering. I wouldn't wear any coat that goes over my knee

  31. Hi, I use an overcoat when going to the Hill in D.C. It is great because I am not cold when I go in and out of the building, but it is not good because I don't have an office where I can leave the coat while I go to my appointments. What should I do with it? Should I keep it on while inside, or take it off and carry it on my arm?

  32. I was getting a cotton trench coat tailored so I made it mid calf length but then when looking in the mirror, I looked like I was about to go on a flashing spree so I had them chop it off right above my knee

  33. Do you still have that Kelly Green overcoat? I would like to buy it for St. Patrick Parades and I can't seem to find it anywhere

  34. i bought a used navy burberry trench coat from the 80s on ebay and it still looked brand new beside the dryed out leather buckle. really happy, saved myself at least a g in the process. go vintage

  35. I love reading comments in here by younger people who think whats trendy is what they will be wearing when they are older. Poor schmucks.

  36. I'm a woman and my favourite overcoat is a burgundy/plum colour. I consistently get complimented for it. It has a funnel collar with a silver clasp, so pretty. So I totally agree that colour can make a big statement.

  37. I agree with most on the list however it takes confidence and sartorial maturity to properly pull off the boutonierre or pocket square with overcoat. Most people will fail terribly whether realizing it or not. It is along the lines of sprezzatura and a personal choice of expression. It can be acceptable, but is atypical and pushing the boundaries of costume.

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